sewing tutorial » Radcrafter

Pillows, Pillows Everywhere

Nov 162011

When the boyfriend and I merged households several years ago, we both had couches neither of us were willing to part with. Big couches. Luckily, the house we rent has a nice, large living room with plenty of space for both of the monster sofas. Unluckily, the marriage of the two sofas is a bit of an odd mix. The man’s sofa is a more relaxed style that reminds me of a really over sized lazy boy and mine is a little more traditional with an updated twist. But, in order to keep everyone happy, ya work with what ya got. And, now that both of my children are out of the ~~spread food, goo and who knows what else~~ toddler phase I feel somewhat safe in doing a little redecorating. My hope is to find some styles or colors that will work with both couches and possibly make their union a little more harmonious.

As usual I’ve started searching online versus the stores. I like to find items and ideas that are more unique, than what you’d find in any of the big box stores.

My pinterest finds…

Source: caitlinwilsondesign.blogspot.com via J on Pinterest

Source: tyandwhitneyulrich.blogspot.com via Karla on Pinterest

Source: theblog.modamuse.com via Cynthia on Pinterest

Source: thewillowshomeandgarden.blogspot.com via Patricia on Pinterest

Source: flickr.com via chai on Pinterest

Oh, this is a hard one. I love something about all of these pillows whether it’s the shape, style or the fabric. Decisions, decisions.

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10 DIY Christmas Stocking Tutorials

Christmas, Sewing 3 Responses »

Nov 112011

This year I am determined to sew Christmas stockings for my kids and actually get them hung before Christmas day. The Christmas holiday season seems to follow a similar pattern each year for me. I start out with the best of intentions on my checklist…decorate the Christmas tree, hang holiday lights outside, add some Christmas cheer to the interior of our home, find some cute stocking stuffers and HANG THE STOCKINGS. Some years are better than others and I’ll get most of my checklist completed in time, but I’ve yet to complete the last on the list. Now before you start thinking I’ve deprived my children the joy of having a Christmas stocking to dig into each year, I have to confess one of their grandmother’s goes all out every year and each of her grandchildren has a personalized stocking. When I was married we spent Christmas Eve at the in-laws and everyone opened presents, including Christmas stockings. And, even though I’m no longer married, we keep the holidays as fun for the kids as possible by continuing that tradition (minus myself) on Christmas Eve and then another celebration here at home. So this year I would like to start a new tradition here at home by sewing some special stockings for the kids and here are some of the great tutorials I’ve found. All of them include step by step instructions and a few actually include patterns to download. Now all I have to do is pick a favorite or two and get to work.

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Fabric Organizer Bin (aka Diaper Caddy) – Sewing Tutorial and Free Pattern Download

Sewing 36 Responses »

Nov 012011

These little bins are fairly easy to sew and I would definitely recommend to any sewing novice. The fabric storage bins are very popular at the moment and I recently sewed one for a baby shower, which then resulted in sewing a few more to offer up in a giveaway. Knowing I wanted to write up a tutorial to share, I was a good girl and snapped the necessary pictures while working on the first one. And, then that’s were it sat for the past couple of weeks, while I worked up the energy to create the pattern pieces (my least favorite part). Today is one of those ‘get it done’ days, so pattern pieces have finally been created. Yay!

Here’s how to create your own fabric organizer bin. The fabric length recommendation below is generous and it is very possible to create a bin with less fabric, but this will allow for any mishaps that may occur.

You’ll need:

1/2 Yard of Fabric (home decor weight recommending, but if you use a lighter weight cotton be sure to use interfacing)

1/2 Yard of Lining

Mid- Weight Interfacing – small amount for the handles and optional for the body of the bin.

Peltex One Sided Fusible – Very stiff interfacing. Pattern pieces not included. You’ll need one piece 9″ x 5.5″ and two pieces @ 15″ x 7″.

Pattern pieces – Available for download at the bottom of the post.

After the templates have been printed out and the pattern pieces created, you cut everything necessary for the fabric bin. I like to create my pattern pieces out of cardstock or posterboard, but for the trial run you may want to go with regular paper just in case you decide to make any adjustments.

Start with the handles. Iron the mid-weight interfacing to the back of your handle pieces. Fold each piece in half lengthwise, iron well. Then open and fold/iron each side to meet the middle crease line.

Now top stitch each side of the strap close to edge. Set the handles aside.

Move onto prepping the body and lining bottom. First, center and iron the one sided fusible Peltex to each fabric body piece (but not the bottom piece). The fusible interfacing comes with directions on how to apply to fabric. I usually position it on the back side of the fabric, hold in place, then flip right side up and finally iron in place. Now use the remaining Peltex piece for the lining bottom. Repeat the sames steps as you used for the body pieces. When completed you should have the stiff interfacing applied to the back of each piece of the boy fabric & one smaller piece applied to the backside of the bottom lining piece.

Once everything is prepped you can begin assembly. Both the lining and the exterior of the bin are assembled exactly the same, so only the assembly of the lining is shown. Match the bottom lining piece to the bottom of one body piece, right sides together. Stitch 5/8″ seam. Repeat for other body piece, but leave an opening in the center for turning.

Now topstitch along bottom, with seam allowance towards the bottom. Remember not to topstitch the opening. The topstitching is really optional. Your bag will still function properly without the topstitching. It just gives the bin a more finished look. **When stitching the exterior fabric for the body, you do not leave an opening. Both seams along the bottom are sewn completely from one side to the other.

Match up sides, right sides together and then stitch a 5/8″ seam on each side. Press your seam allowance to one side and then topstitch. Pic below shows the topstitching, after the sides were stitched together.

Match the seam on the sides to the center of the bottom piece. I usually eyeball this, but if you aren’t sure you can always mark the center of the bottom before assembly. This will make it easy to match up after pieces have been stitched together.. Stitch a 5/8″ seam.

Trim seam allowance down to about 1/4″. This helps eliminate some of the bulk and define the shape of the bin when everything is turned right side out.

This is a completed lining and body sitting side by side.

It’s time to attach the handles. Pin each so that the inside edge of the handle is 1 1/4″ from the side seam. Stitch in place. Sew approx. 1/4″ seam. I usually stitch in a zig zag pattern to reinforce the handles.

With the handles sewn to the exterior of the bin, its time to attach the lining to the body. Set the exterior of the bin inside the lining, right sides together. Match and pin at the side seams.

Starting at one side seam stitch all the way around the bin.

Once the stitching is complete, turn the bag right side out using the opening in the lining bottom. Double check all your work and be sure everything looks good before stitching the opening closed. The last step is to topstitch around the top of the fabric bin. It’s usually a good idea to iron all around the top so that all the fabric is smoothed out before sewing. The topstitching also helps keep the lining sitting nicely inside the bin.

You’re done. The finished bin should look very similar in shape to the one above. The handle pattern piece included is shorter than what you see on this bin, so you’re finished bin should have slightly shorter handles. The Peltex is incredibly stiff and keeps the bin standing all on it’s own. The are perfect for storing diapers, dvds, toys, books, doll clothes, dolls, toy cars…..

Click on the image below to print out the fabric bin organizer templates. The pages need to print out at 100% to ensure the proper size and you’ll also want the smallest margins possible. A finished bin should measure approx. 9″ L (side to side) x 6″ D x 7″ H.

Sharing my tutorial at these parties…

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Camera Strap Slipcover – Tutorial

Sewing No Responses »

Oct 112011

This is a super easy & simple camera strap cover. Very little sewing required. Anyone will basic sewing skills can do this one easy peezy. All you need is some fusible interfacing, fabric & a good iron. Seriously, that’s it.

This is probably the trickiest part of the whole process, determining the necessary width of the slipcover. First, measure the width of your strap. Be sure that you measure at the widest point (usually the leather tabs) even if you don’t intend for the slipcover to actually cover that point. The completed slipcover must be able to slide over that point or all your work will be for naught. The strap in my tutorial measures 1.5″ inches wide, so my slipcover is going to be 2″ inches wide. This allows room for the thickness of the strap & for the top stitching on either side (you’ll see that later). I like the slipcover to be a tight fit to prevent slipping once in place, but you can always go wider (this will make it easier to slide on).

VERY IMPORTANT – Cut the fabric piece 4x times the width of your finished camera strap slipcover. So for my 2″ wide slipcover, the fabric is cut to 8″ inches wide. You want the cut length to be a few inches longer than your finished length. The area I want to cover is 23″ L, so my fabric is cut to around 26″ inches in length. This doesn’t have to be exact. But it’s better to go longer vs shorter. You can always cut it down to length, but you can’t add that fabric back on.

Cut the fusible interfacing piece to the actual width & length of the area to be covered. For the sample, that would be 23″ L x 1.5″ W. This may have to be adjusted slightly later on.

Once everything is cut you’re ready to start the first bit of ironing…fold over about a half inch, iron & then another half inch & iron again. After completing one end, measure from the end you just ironed to about an inch past the length of the desired finished length. So for my 23″ L slipcover, I’m going to measure out to 24″ & then cut off any excess. Repeat the fold & iron steps from above. Adjust your folds slightly, if necessary, to give you the proper length. Both ends should look like the image below & the length of your piece should now be the finished length. This one now measures 23″ total.

Now fold the piece in half down the long side. Iron. This needs to be a clean, crisp line. Be sure to line up the ends.

Unfold the long piece & then fold one side in towards the middle stopping at the center line. Iron. Repeat on the other side. It’s important to keep the ends matched up as you go along or your final product will not line up properly in the end.

Now you finally do a little sewing…stitch through all layers close to the edge & then stitch again about a 1/2″ in. Once again be sure you keep all your ends lined up neatly. This stitching will keep everything in place. You can always pin before stitching if you are worried about the fabric shifting.

Now it’s time to insert the interfacing inside the strap. It can go on either side, just be sure it lays nice and smooth. Trim the length as necessary. Now fold the strap down the center line. Flip the strap, if necessary, so that the fusible side of your interfacing is face up. Iron it in place.

The last step in assembly is to top stitch the slipcover closed & then repeat on the other side. You may want to pin along the length to keep everything in place as you stitch it closed. Be sure to match up your ends…have I stressed that enough !

That’s it. Your camera strap slipcover is complete.

Now it’s time to insert your camera strap. Work the strap through using the leather tabs as a lead or whatever works best for you.

And, that’s it your done!

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Zipper Pouch with gusset – Tutorial

Sewing, Uncategorized 2 Responses »

Oct 112011

The gusseted zipper pouches are basically a slight variation of the Zipper Pouch with Snap Hook Tutorial. The gusset will provide added depth to the pouch, so you’ll have more room for stuff. The first step is to create your pattern pieces and I’ve provided two sample pouch patterns to download to help get you started. The sample shown in the tutorial is the large Blossom Zipper Pouch.

So to begin you need to cut…

I usually use fusible interfacing because it’s easier to work with when matching up multiple layers. So if you go that route, iron your interfacing to the front and back body pieces. All seams shown are 5/8″. Now from here you can refer back to my previous zipper pouch tutorial to begin construction. The snap hook shown in that tutorial is completely optional. Follow these instructions, until you reach the step that says to stitch it all the way around. From here things go a little bit differently…

You will stitch each side from one end to the other, except for the lining you’ll want to leave an opening for turning.

It should look like this once all the sides are sewn…see the hole for turning at the bottom of the lining.

Now to sew your gussets. Take each corner and match up the pieces, seam to seam. Pin in place, so the seams will not shift/move while sewing. The seam should be in the middle on either side. You’ll want it to look like this…

Now you stitch a 5/8″ inch seam across. You’ll want to trim down the excess to about 1/4″ after stitching is complete. If you leave all the excess, it will be difficult to fold everything out properly. You can see in this photo the seam allowance is already trimmed down along the side.

Once you’ve sewn all 4 corners as shown above & trimmed down the seam allowances, you are ready to turn the pouch. Pull everything through the opening in the lining, check to make sure everything looks good and if so, sew that opening closed. That’s it your done. A completed pouch should look similar to this…

Click on the image below to download the free pouch pattern templates. You’ll want to cut one of each out of cardstock/posterboard to create your actual pattern piece. It’s always easier to cut with your fabric lying flat versus cutting along a fold line. Bubbles measures approx. 6″ H x 4″ L x 2″ D and Buttercup measures approx. 4″ H x 8″ L x 3″ D. Finished examples of these two bags may be available to view in the Martilena Etsy Shop.

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