Feb 052014
 

We got a new bed at Christmas.  A HUGE new bed.  Well, it is to me anyway.  I’ve never owned anything larger than a queen sized bed my entire life, so when the boyfriend decided we needed to go king sized I was a little skeptical at first.  I’m mean do we really need a bed that big??  But, after about a day week later I totally get it.  It’s so nice to have the extra room, especially when one of the kids comes sneaking in at 2am, but the best part is being able to get out of bed without disturbing anyone.   Now either one of us can just roll out of bed without waking the other.  It is awesome, especially to a light sleeper like myself.  In our old bed I knew the moment he was even thinking of waking up and now on the weekends he is long gone well before I even think about rising.

Anyways, onto what this post is supposed to be about…headboard tutorials.  When we got the bed it came with a platform for it to sit on, but we didn’t purchase a headboard or footboard (and I don’t think we will on the latter).  I knew at the time that I would be able to DIY something, but would just have to decide on what style and how much work I wanted to put into it.

I thought I would share some of the tutorials I’ve found, which will link directly back to the site.  I love the eye candy of pinterest, but get so frustrated when I click on links-to-nowhere.

Nailhead Trim DIY Headboard - I actually love the headboard submitted by one of her readers the most, because I am fairly certain the boyfriend will want something more along masculine lines.  Her tutorial is very clear and easy to understand (as are most of her projects-love her blog).

centsational-girl-bed-linens

Wingbacked DIY Headboard – I like this one too.  The buttons give it a touch of femininity, but the large square shape keep the masculine feel.

headboard3-2smd

Tufted Headboard Tutorial – Great pictures in this one and she does it step by step.  This is another one I think I might be able to get away with as it doesn’t cross over completely into girly land. Oh, she also includes the different “names” for headboard shapes, which is helpful too.

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Super Plush Tufted Headboard – This one looks so soft and comfy.  I’m not sure I’m up to the task of tackling that many tufts, but it sure looks good.

joanna006

Unfortunately, the blog post for this one is now defunct, but I loved the look of the headboard so much I’m including it so I don’t have to go searching for the picture again.

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I am also going to include another favorite that is straight from West Elm, so no tutorial available and it is no longer available from West Elm.  I am still really partial to this one for several reasons…the scale (nice & tall), the simplicity (love the jute fabric) & the masculinity (rectangle shape, nailhead trim, neutral fabric).  We’ll see where we end up!

west-elm-headboard_thumb

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Feb 032014
 

This project came about because of three really, old posters that I’ve had for what seems like forever.  They were originally designated one each to me, my sister and my brother.  My mom had given them to each of us when we were kids and I have somehow managed to hang on to them for 25+ years.  They have never been framed and that is mainly due to their odd size which has made it impossible to find reasonably priced frames.

B&B Posters

One of the posters is MIA as I already had it in the frame before I remembered to snap a before photo.  Anyways,  I’ve wanted to frame them forever and when we moved into the house last year I refused to hang them until I found some way to get that done.  I finally decided to give DIY a try and see if I could create something that would do two things… look good and be budget friendly.

The frames I created could easily be resized to fit almost any size poster.  My posters already have foam board attached to the back for stability, so you would want to add that step if your poster is flimsy.

The posters are all sized the same at 16” x 24”, so my frames and cuts were made to fit those measurements.

What You Need (for 1 frame):

  • 1 x 2 – 8’ long (I used furring strips, but if you wanted to stain them I would go with select or something nicer)
  • 1 x 4 – 4’ long
  • Wood Glue
  • 1 ¼” Nails
  • ¾” Nails/Brads
  • Nail/Brad Gun  (you could use a regular ol’ hammer, but much easier with an air tool)
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding block or Palm Sander

Steps:

I went with mitered corners, but to make this even easier you could just do simple butt joint at each corner.  Using the 1 x 2 I cut two pieces @ 16” inches long on the inside edge and two pieces @ 24” inches long on the inside edge.  Then using the 1 x 4,  I cut one piece @ 16” and one piece at 23″ .  (This step requires either a table saw or circular saw, but you could easily purchase thinner strips of wood which are found in the same spot as the other wood for this project.)  Using the saw I ripped two ½” thick pieces off of each length.

So after everything is cut you end up with this…

cut wood for poster frame I laid them out on the work table to be sure they all matched up.
poster frame pre-nails

Then I marked each piece several times at ¼” inch in from one edge.  My posters are a little less than ¼” thick and this mark will tell me where to place the inside trim pieces later on (you would want to adjust to the thickness of your posters).  *Be sure to have the marks line up all the way around before you nail everything together.

marked board

Now you match up one long mitered piece to one short one, apply some glue and then nail together (using 1 1/4” nails).  Then repeat with the other two pieces.  I only shot one nail per corner at first just so it would be easier to square things up once all four pieces are attached together.  Once everything is squared up, shoot one more nail into each corner.  This should stabilize the frame quite a bit.  I waited to do the next step until the glue was dry just to be sure my frame would not wobble or move on me while I finished assembling the pieces.

With the glue dry, add the inside trim.  Using the marks you made earlier place one of the 16” pieces along those marks on a short side.  Glue and then nail in place with the ¾” nails.  Repeat on the other short side.  Then use the longer pieces and nail one in place on each long side.  I just butted the edges on the inside trim, no mitered corners.

close up poster frame

The frame is now complete and should look this…

complete poster frame

Using wood filler you can fill any nail holes or neaten up the corners (if you have any small gaps).  The picture above you can see where I’ve already applied wood filler to the frame.

While you are waiting for the wood filler to dry, flip the frames over and apply the picture hangers.  I just used the simple, inexpensive hangers (a package of 6 was .97 cents) and applied two to the back of each frame.

picture hangerOnce the wood filler dries, sand everything smooth.  Now the frame is ready for paint or stain.

My frames were all spray painted black to go with other frames already in the house.  After they were painted the posters were inserted from the back and then stapled around each poster to keep them in place.

completed frames up-close

Now these old, abused, odd-sized posters have a new home hanging in the entryway to our family room.

completed poster frames

I love getting to see them everyday instead of having them stashed away in a closet.  The best part is that I only spent about $12 total and an afternoon (drying time is most of that) to build all three.  Of course, I already had everything on hand, except for the wood and picture hangers so that kept the price even lower than if I had to start from scratch.

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