Aug 192012
 

My littlest one starts Kindergarten next week and although she has a ton of clothes that have been handed down to her from older friends and cousins, it’s always fun to let her pick out some fun fabrics and create something unique.  She’s big into skirts and loves them all from your frilly, ruffled girly girl skirts to your more tailored, formal, dress-up skirts.  So below are a few of my favorite skirt tutorials that I found recently (including one super cute baby skirt tutorial) that are all easy to sew and include great tutorials.

Oilily Shaza Skirt Tutorial (Knockoff) from the Sewing Dork

Great tutorial and love the skirt!

 

Rainbow Ruffle Skirt Tutorial from the Meaningful Mama

Great for sewing beginners and so cute!

Pleated Bubble Skirt Tutorial from See Kate Sew

I love the look with the pleats running along the bottom.

Little Baby Circle Skirt from Dana Made It

Makes me wish I had a little one to sew some of these!

Super easy skirt tutorial from All’s Well, DL

These are like crazy simple to sew.  Great for beginners!

Quicky A-Line skirt tutorial from Sugar City Journal

I’m so making some of these for my daughter this school year!

Bohemian Skirt Tutorial from Riley Blake Designs

Love this skirt and the tutorial includes lots of great pictures.

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Apr 132012
 

About a month ago I shared a post about my venture into pouf making, you can read about it here.  My daughter was in love with the finished bag and carried it with her from room to room.  All was well, except for the fabric used for the exterior of the bag.  It was this soft, stretchy panne and the give in fabric really kept the bag from maintaining any shape other than a flat pancake when used regularly.

Exhibit A:

Not too pretty, huh.  I left it alone until I couldn’t stand to look at the poor misshapen thing any longer and decided to replace the cover.  My only debate was whether or not to purchase something or try to find something I already had on hand.   I just so happened to have purchased some beautiful home decor prints and seriously considered recovering it in one of those, but then remembered that she does everything on this pouf, including  eating snacks and sometimes meals.  My daughter is not a neat at anything she does be it coloring to eating, so the thought of ruining the beautiful fabric within minutes kept me thinking of other possibilities.  And, then I had one of those “Aha!” moments and remembered that I had a cotton canvas drop cloth (previously used as a backdrop for photos) & some purple iDye (purchased earlier for another project, but never used).    Decision made…dye the canvas purple and use it to recover the pouf.

The canvas was dyed purple without any issue.  I just followed all the directions inside the little pouch.  After it was washed and dried, I went to work on recreating the pouf with a few minor changes.  First, I wanted something a little smaller because my daughter lugged this everywhere and getting it up and down the stairs was sometimes a challenge for her.  Second, I wanted to create one band to create the side of the pouf versus the four individual sides on the current bag.

So below you’ll see two 23 1/4″ squares along with a 90″ L x 14 ” H piece.  The drop cloth was only 90″ in total length, so that also played a factor in determining the overall size of the bag.  I cut everything on the floor just because it was easier than trying to wrangle the large drop cloth onto my cutting table.

Now to assemble the pouf, I used my ruler and white marking pencil to make the first tick about 13″ in from the end.  From that first mark I measured out 23 1/4″ inches and marked again and again until left with about 13″ inches on the opposite end.  Repeat on the other side.

Now I matched up a corner of the top of the pouf to the first tick mark on the side and began sewing about 5/8″ from the end.

You can see I stopped about 5/8″ inches from the end.  I did this to allow room for the other side.  If you stitch all the way across,  you have no way to create your corner.

In order to make the corner, I clipped at an angle almost to my stitching.  This allows me make the turn with my band of fabric.  Without the clipping it is really difficult to line up the fabric properly.

Then, I lined up the band to the next side of the top and matched the end of the top to the next tick mark on band.  Repeat steps from above.  I had some sides line up better than others, but I just made the adjustment at the corners.  A tiny bit of overlap at a corner isn’t going to be noticed (at least not by my 4 year old :) ).   I also clipped the excess fabric off at each corner.  The extra fabric will make the corner bunch when turned right side out.

This process was just repeated over and over until both the top and bottom were completely attached to the side band.  There was a large opening along the backside, where the two shorter ends met in the middle.  Perfect for turning and stuffing the pouf liner inside.

Let the stuffing begin!  I worked up a sweat getting the large stuffed liner inside it’s new home, but when it was done I was excited about the change in appearance almost immediately.  The canvas is definitely thicker and more capable of maintaining the square shape.  After the stuffing was complete, I slipstitched the opening by hand using purple thread.  The double stitching was already there as it was the stitching around the edges of the drop cloth originally.  It didn’t dye with the rest of the fabric, so I’m guessing it is nylon (dye was for cotton only).  You can ignore the loose threads, I pulled those out later.

That’s it.  New cover now completed and thoroughly tested.  My daughter has brought it up and down the stairs numerous times, jumped on it and even shared a brief tug-of-war over it with her brother.  All the while it managed to keep the shape you see below.  Yay!  No more flat pancake.

 

 

 

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Dec 302011
 

This is an easy one for me this year, since my little blog is so new.  Hopefully, this time next year the list of favorites will be lengthy enough to make it difficult to choose.

#1 – The Fabric Bin Tutorial

#2 – The Simple Camera Strap Slipcover Tutorial

#3 – Toothbrush Holder Repurposing

#4 – Diaper Pouch Tutorial and Pattern Download

Diaper Pouches

#5 – Faux Distressed Finish Painting Tutorial

#6 – DIY Apothecary Jars

#7 – Small Zipper Pouch Sewing Tutorial

#8 – Gusseted Zipper Pouch Tutorial and Free Pattern Download

#9 – Goody Bag Tutorial

#10 – Burlap Candle Sleeve Tutorial

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year!!

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Dec 082011
 

I did it. Oh yeah, I can cross hang the Christmas stockings off the checklist. Yay! For those of you who read this little blog, you know I mentioned previously that this was a major TO-DO on the Christmas checklist this year. If you’re just checking in, you can read more about that here.  And, after lots of online oogling and book skimming (I’m always reading crafting, decorating books, etc) it finally came to me. My idea was to merge a simple stocking pattern found online with a basket weave pillow design that I discovered in an old Martha Stewart decorating book.

 These stockings are lined, only require a few supplies and require minimum sewing skills to create.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • 2 rolls of ribbon.  I used 30 ft rolls of 1.5″ w ribbon and had some leftover from each, including the silver which was used on both stockings.
  • 1/2 yard of fabric (this will be the back and the lining).
  • Stocking pattern/template – The one used in this project can be found here (thank you, Simply Notable!) and it’s free to download.
  • Small piece of fusible interfacing – 13″ w x 18″ L

First, cut the ribbon into strips.  You’ll need 10 – 13″ long pieces in one color and 7 – 18″ long pieces in the contrasting color.  If you decide to use a different width of ribbon, you may need more or less.  Also, I used wired ribbon, but not by choice.  The kids wanted something with sparkle and we couldn’t find anything in the regular ribbon area, so after a little more searching we found this sparkly wired ribbon in the Christmas section.

Place the interfacing shiny side up, so that the fusing will adhere to the ribbon when it’s time to iron in place.  Take the short pieces of ribbon and pin along the long edge of the interfacing.  Keep the sides touching of each piece as you work your way up the edge.

Once all the short pieces are pinned in place, take one long strip and start weaving it through.  It works well to pin at the starting point so you can create a nice tight weave.

 

Keep weaving until the entire piece of interfacing is covered.  Remember to keep everything as tight as possible and keep adjusting the pieces as necessary.  A completed piece should look something like this…

Once all the ribbon is in place, it’s time to iron the fusing in place.  The ribbon you’ve selected may be heat sensitive so keep that in mind before you slam the hot iron down.  Carefully flip the piece interfacing side up and iron in place.  Be sure to adjust any pieces that may have slipped or moved while flipping.  Mine was fairly stiff even before fusing to the interfacing, but I’m sure the wire had something to do with that.  You may want to pin in several places along the edge to keep everything together, if you are worried about too much shifting during the flip.

Now it’s time to cut all the necessary stocking pieces.  Position the pattern piece over the weaved ribbon (pin, if necessary) and then cut.  Now using the same pattern piece cut 3 more from the fabric.  One will be used for the back of the stocking and the other two will be used for the lining.  Another option would be to use contrasting fabrics.

Match the back of the stocking to the front (ribbon), right sides together.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam from the top of one side all the way around.  Repeat with the two lining pieces, except stop about midway along the longest side and leave an opening, then finish stitching to the top of the side.  You’ll see the opening in the picture below. *If  using wired ribbon just sew carefully and be sure the needle dodges all the tiny wires.  I thought it was going to be more of a challenge, but both stockings went together easily.

Turn the stocking right side out and adjust any ribbon that may have shifted during the turning.  To create the loop for hanging your stocking cut a 10″ piece of ribbon, fold in half lengthwise and stitch.  Now fold the length in half and stitch it to the stocking along the back seam.

Slide the right side out stocking into the lining (still wrong side out) so that the right sides are touching.  Match up the two pieces at the seams and pin in place.  Stitch a 5/8″ seam around the top.

Once the two pieces are sewn together along the top, use the opening left in the lining to pull the outside of the stocking through.  The weaving may get a little wrinkled during  this but it can all be smoothed out easily.  After the outside of the stocking is pulled through, sew the opening in the lining shut and push the lining into the interior of the stocking.  Top stitch a 1/4″ seam along the top of the stocking.

The ribbon Christmas stocking is now complete…

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Nov 252011
 

I have loved old bottles in all shapes, sizes and colors since I was a little kid.  Some of my favorites are the old apothecary bottles, especially those with the original labels still attached.   Currently, two things have kept me from picking up any new bottles to add to my collection, a limited budget and my kids.  $$$ Decorative Bottle + 2 Crazy Kids = Broken Bottle & :( Mom.  But, I recently came up with a cost-effective solution to the problem.  I can proudly display these bottles without the worry of money lost if they are accidentally destroyed during an impromptu pillow fight in the living room.

I found 4 apothecary style jars at various thrift stores and garage sales.  My total investment, $4.00.   Then, I purchased FolkArt Enamel paint in two different colors, Burnt Umber & Cerulean Blue.  This paint is not food safe, so keep that in mind if you intend to use your jars for snacks or candy.  Cost for the paint, $4 (used 1/2 off coupons).   I also used some (non-flammable) paint thinner, but I had that on-hand so no additionally cost there.  FolkArt sells a thinner specifically for this paint and I don’t think it would be a bad investment.  The regular paint finish is opaque and to create a more translucent look you’ll need a thinner.  More on that below.

The two smaller bottles at the top of this post were the trial run, so I made a few adjustments with these last two and as a result have thicker finish.  I’ll share info on both experiments.  First, create paint and thinner mixture.  I did not use a set ratio and it turned out that my first batch was a little too thin.  It was super easy to spread inside the bottles, but the paint was too thinned out and didn’t adhere perfectly when baked.  I actually liked the splotchiness of the first two, since the bottles are supposed to appear antiqued and not brand new.

But, in the true spirit of experimentation I wanted to see what would happen with a thicker layer of paint.  My second batch was significantly thicker and required a lot more time and patience to spread the paint.  To avoid brush strokes I rotated the jar around repeatedly allowing the paint to spread out across the glass and due to the thicker mixture there was a good amount of shaking to speed things along.

Now that the paint has been spread all around, you have to allow the paint to dry for an hour before baking.  So while they were drying I spray painted the lids my current favorite metal finish, Oil Rubbed Bronze.  I taped off the plastic areas before spraying.  After a few thin coats, I left those to dry.

Once the jars have dried the allotted time, you bake them in the oven for 30 minutes.  You don’t pre-heat the oven, because the glass will crack if you place them into a hot oven.  If you use another brand of paint, be sure to read the specific instructions for it.  Some glass paints do not require baking or may require a different temp or time.  Also, I noticed  the paint smell while baking is VERY strong, so I would recommend baking them when the kids aren’t around or be sure the exhaust fan is on high.  After they bake, you have to let them cool.  The end result…the finish on these two bottles was significantly more opaque and smoother than the first batch.  My next (third) batch (when I get my hands on some more bottles) will be with the actual thinner from FolkArt.  I’d like to see what, if any, difference it makes in the final finish.

Now for the labels.  I found several tutorials on how to antique paper and I used this one.  My biggest departure from her method was to use tea vs coffee.  And, it’s important to note the longer you soak the paper the darker the patina.  My favorites I let soak for over 5 minutes before baking.  The tea helps create a speckled effect. Oh, and all the vintage style labels were found courtesy of the Graphics Fairy.  She has lots and lots of cool FREE vintage style graphics.

Once you have the labels completed, it is time to glue them in place.  Be sure to properly clean the glass before gluing.  The bottles will be covered in your fingerprints from all that shaking you did to spread the paint.   I used a Loctite spray adhesive I found at Lowe’s.  There are many different brands and types of glue out there.  Just be sure it adheres to both glass and paper.

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